A Complete Travel Guide to Japan’s Art Island, Naoshima
Nestled in the blue waters of the Seto Inland Sea is Naoshima, one of roughly a dozen ‘art islands’ in this area of Japan. Although today a popular tourist destination, it was once home to thriving salt and fishing industries. It was prosperous after WWII and into the mid-20th century, but as Japan's economy shifted, Naoshima began to face economic decline. By the 1980s, the island was grappling with unemployment, environmental degradation, and economic stagnation. It was during this time that the Benesse Corporation and renowned architect Tadao Ando began an ambitious project called “Benesse Art Site Naoshima”, to transform the area into an artistic enclave.
The result? A successful revitalization of the island as a creative hub and destination for art lovers. Today, the art scene rivals that of many major cities, with installations from world-renowned artists like Yayoi Kusama and James Turrell, as well as rotating exhibits at the Chichu Art Museum, designed by Ando and opened in 2004. Additionally, the island’s natural beauty serves as a tranquil backdrop to the art and architecture—much of which has been designed to respect its nature rather than obstruct it. Chichu is perhaps one of the best examples: Ando designed it to be mostly underground to be as non-intrusive as possible.
While reaching this unique art island may require a bit of time and effort, the journey is worth it. To help you, here’s a complete guide to Naoshima, along with intel on how to get there from major cities like Osaka and Tokyo, hotel and restaurant recommendations, and tips for seeing the best of the island’s art.
Short on time? Here are my top hotels and things to do in Naoshima.
Hotels
Benesse - $$$ - stay the night in an actual museum with stunning views of the Seto Inland Sea.
Sana Mane - $$ - a mid-range glamping retreat near the Miyanoura Port (west side).
A sample two-day itinerary to Naoshima
Day 1 | Morning: Take the ferry to Honmura Port (east) and grab a bike. Go to the tourist center to reserve a time slot for Minamidera (James Turrell’s art house), then pop by a few art houses in town.
Day 1 | Afternoon: Get omelette rice for lunch at Cafe Salon Nakaoku, then go to Minamidera.
Day 1 | Evening: Check into Benesse, before you visit Yayoi Kusama’s famous yellow pumpkin and the Lee Ufan museum. Eat dinner at the hotel’s fine dining restaurant, Terrace Restaurant.
Day 2 | Morning: Visit the Valley Gallery and Chichu Art museum (reserve a time slot online in advance). Then, bike ~10 minutes to the west harbor to see Kusama’s other pumpkin and the Naoshima Public Bath I Love Yu.
Day 2 | Afternoon: Return to the east harbor and eat lunch at vegan spot, Aisunao, before catching a ferry.
Getting there
From Osaka or Kyoto, first take a train to Okayama station (JR pass accepted).
From Okayama take a train or bus to Uno Station.
Get a ferry from Uno to Miyanoura (west) or Honmura (east) harbor.
>> Get organized: Save all of these recommendations (and much more!) directly in your Google Maps app.
Is Naoshima worth visiting?
Yes, absolutely. If you love art and nature, go. It’s such a unique combination of both. It was a highlight of both my last trip to Japan and all of my past trips to to the country. It’s also a good side trip from Osaka/Kyoto—especially if you want to branch out from the standard tourist route. Since you have to take two trains and a ferry, it may feel like a lot of work to get here, but in reality it was quite smooth and each leg of the trip connected to the next one easily.
How long should you spend in Naoshima?
Visitors should plan to spend at least 2 days / 1 night on Naoshima. However, 3 days / 2 nights will allow you to visit the art galleries, art houses, and sculptures at a more relaxed pace. You could also extend your trip an extra day or two if you want to also do a day trip to one of the other two nearby art islands.
We visited Naoshima as an overnight from Osaka, leaving first thing in the morning and taking the last ferry back the next day. I thought it was the perfect amount of time, and we even made it back to Osaka in time for a late dinner after a full day of museum-hopping on the island. This approach also allowed us to leave most of our luggage at our hotel and just bring a small overnight bag, which gave us more freedom to go right into exploring the island (without checking into a hotel first).
Where to stay on Naoshima
The exterior of Benesse House
Tip: I found it difficult to book rooms and pay directly on Japanese hotels’ websites. Not everything translated well, and they don’t all support foreign credit cards for payments. Although I typically prefer to book direct, in this case, it was much easier to use a booking platform like Agoda or booking.com—both of which had all the hotels I wanted to stay in on their platforms.
Benesse House
Ever want to spend the night in an actual museum? Then this is your chance. Built and owned by the group who started it all, and designed by Ando, Benesse House mixes hospitality and art to give guests the chance to truly immerse themselves in the essence of the island. Expect modern minimalist design, modern architecture, and stunning sea views, all while being within a quick walk or bus ride to some of the island's most renowned art attractions. We stayed here and although there was a slightly unpleasant odor by the beachside rooms (get a room in the Oval House if you can), overall staying here was such a treat.
Naoshima Ryokan Roka
This luxury ryokan, a traditional type of Japanese accommodation, is a newcomer to the island and within walking distance to the village of Hommura, where the Art House Project is. Although traditional in its approach to hospitality, the rooms themselves are modern and minimalist. But the most stand-out features at this property are their delicious, kaiseki dinners and on-site hot springs.
Sana Mane
Sana Mane is a glamping experience with some really unique, organic-shaped huts, right near the west harbor. We didn’t get a chance to stay here, but we almost booked a tent right before a room at Benesse opened up. It’s also an easy, 10-minute walk to the Miyanoura village and close to the Chichu Art Museum.
Can’t miss art on Naoshima
No surprise here, it’s all about the art on Naoshima. Although my favorite part was how easy it was to just bike around and “discover” or stumble on interesting sculptures and installations scattered about the island and its villages, here are several highlights you shouldn’t miss:
Chichu Art Museum: This is the largest museum on the island as well as an architectural icon, designed by Ando, that’s just as worth visiting for the art inside as it is for the building’s architecture. You’ll need to purchase a ticket and reserve a time slot in advance online.
Yayoi Kusama’s pumpkins: There are two, one in front of Benesse House and one at the ferry terminal at Miyanoura.
Valley Gallery: For more by Kusama, visit one of her newer installations at the Valley Gallery at Benesse House.
Benesse House: Even if you don’t stay here, it’s worth visiting the expansive property to admire its modern architecture, wander its museum, and discover the various sculptures hidden in the woods, on beaches, or in gardens throughout the property. There is a free shuttle within its bounds (no biking allowed) but you can also walk.
Art House Project: Throughout the village of Hommura, artists have transformed abandoned houses into art installations. There are roughly half a dozen of these “art houses” and it’s pretty easy to see them all. One you shouldn’t miss is the Minamidera Art House with James Turrell’s exhibit. A reserved time slot is required to enter.
Where to eat and drink
Cafe Salon Nakaoku
Terrace Restaurant
Some of the best food we found on Naoshima included:
Cafe Salon Nakaoku: a homey cafe with excellent omelette rice (exactly what it sounds like) and fresh juices. One of the best meals I had on the island, and such a welcoming place.
Terrace Restaurant at Benesse House: an upscale, French restaurant with a tasting menu. The food was tasty, but I think the service and the views were the best parts for me.
Aisunao: another homey cafe specializing in vegan food. It’s popular and there can be a wait.
Hifumiyo Coffee: Excellent coffee in the Hommura village right across from the Minamidera art house.
Naoshima gelato: A family-run gelato shop near the ferry terminal in Minamidera.
📍 Save yourself some time: I’ve bookmarked all of these restaurants and more in this Google Map List, which you can download and add to your Google Map app for quick and easy access on the ground.
Getting around Naoshima
If you are able, a bike is the best way to get around this tiny island. Yes, there is a hill or two you might need to climb—particularly between the two ports—but overall it’s a very bike friendly place. I also loved that going by bike (vs. bus) allowed us to stop frequently and explore when we passed by things that piqued our interest.
If you’re arriving at the Miyanoura port, there is a bike shop called Ougiya. It’s recommended to reserve one in advance.
We arrived at the Hommura port, however, and rented a bike from the gelato shop across the street, which has a pretty informal set-up: just go into the garage, select a bike (they have ebikes and regular bikes), and drop some money in the box (which I also have bookmarked on this map). There also another bike rental shop called TVC Service at this harbor (no website).
Getting around by bus
Not a fan of biking? No worries. It’s pretty easy to get around via a mix of walking and buses. There is a reliable bus service between the two ports, with stops at the Benesse House and Chichu Museum. There is also a free shuttle within Benesse House’s property.
Should you rent a car?
I do not think you need to rent a car on Naoshima. Between bikes, busses, and walking, it’s pretty easy to get around and, especially if it’s a short trip, you might just be wasting time trying to get a car rental.
Other tips for visiting Naoshima
Some other things we discovered when we were on the ground that I wish I had known earlier:
You need to reserve a time slot for some attractions, like Chichu Museum and Minamidera Art House. You can do this on arrival or the day before.
Get a return ticket for the ferry: It’ll make it much easier and faster to board the ferry on your way out.
Benesse House has a second restaurant serving Japanese food, but it’s smaller and quite popular, so you should try and book a reservation in advance (not when you check-in to the hotel, like we tried >D) if you want to eat there instead of Terrace.
Best time to visit: Spring and fall are the best times to visit, especially since you’ll be outside a fair amount going between galleries and art houses. Summer is also a nice option, but it can get fairly hot (80s - 90s F) so be prepared.
How to get to Naoshima
Most people trying to reach Naoshima from within Japan will take a combination of trains and ferries. We found that Google Maps directions were actually quite accurate and helpful in getting us from Osaka to Naoshima, and everything connected quite smoothly.
If you’re coming from a lot further, the closest airport is Takamatsu Airport. To get from the airport to Naoshima you’ll need to take a 30-minute taxi or 1-hour long train ride to the port. The ferry from Takamatsu port to Naoshima takes a little over an hour for a total travel time from the airport of about 2 hours.
Tip: You can use your JR pass for most of the trains you’ll need to take on this journey—but not for busses or ferries.
From Tokyo
By train and ferry: Take the Shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo Station to Okayama Station. Transfer to the JR Uno Line and take a train to Uno Station. From Uno Port, board a ferry to Naoshima.
Travel Time: 4.5 to 5 hours.
From Osaka or Kyoto
By train and ferry: Take a train from Osaka Station or Kyoto Station to Okayama Station. Transfer to the JR Uno Line and travel to Uno Station. Then, take a ferry from Uno Port to Naoshima.
Travel Time: 2.5 to 3 hours (from Osaka) or 3 to 3.5 hours (from Kyoto)
To make sure your trip goes smoothly…
Advance booking: Consider booking your train tickets in advance, especially during peak travel seasons.
Get (or use) your JR pass: If you have a Japan Rail Pass, note that it covers the JR train portion of the journey but not the ferry to Naoshima.
Ferry schedule: Check the ferry schedule in advance as they may have limited departures, especially in the evenings. Google Maps was fairly accurate, but I also used the Benesse House’s website as a reference.
📍Instantly save all of my recommendations as a Google Map List
Save time adding all of my Naoshima recommendations to your Google Map—I’ve already done it!
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This list includes 40+ recommendations such as:
Restaurants and cafes
Hotel recommendations
Art galleries and installations
Ferry terminals and train stations
Valuable insights and tips for each point of interest to ensure you make the most of your trip in real-time.
